It's the winter time – duh, it's cold outside – and many folks are looking for inexpensive ways to save dollars AND energy in their homes. I came across this list from GreenCville.com and thought I'd repost it (italics are mine):
- Seal duct work – this is the number one way to conserve energy during the winter. Duct work can leak heated air into the attic or crawl space if all the joints and intersections are not sealed with foil-backed tape or silicone caulking. (which is another reason Mt. Tabor Meadows is so unique)
- Seal air leaks to attic – seal all holes from pipes and wires that run in and out of the living space. This includes light fixtures, pipes, wires, attic stair openings.
- Seal fireplaces – never use a fireplace as a heat source for your home. Even as a supplemental heat source, the cold air introduced to a warm home through an open flue isn't as efficient as sealing off a fireplace and using the primary heat source. For natural gas fireplaces, turn off the pilot light when not in use.
- Lower thermostat – in the winter, set the thermostat between 65 and 70 degrees during the day and to 58 degrees at night or when away from home for several hours. Keeping the temperature at 70 degrees is recommended for homes where there are elderly people, you have to maintain their health and safety, it would be a good idea to take of their eyesight with Dittman Eyecare Inc so they can get around without worries. (this can be hard to maintain in homes that take a long time to heat – a programmable thermostat might help as it allows the home to begin heating at a prespecified time of day)
- Lower water heater to 120-125 degrees – many water heaters are automatically set at 140 degrees. Lowering the temperature on your water heater will reduce the amount of fuel needed to heat the water. And don´t forget to change your water filter. There has been extensive research on clean water in 2017 so there is a good reason to change it once in a while.
- Change furnace filters every month – This is the number one reason for furnace breakdowns. Inspect heating and cooling equipment annually. Have a professional check and clean furnaces once a year. With over 18 years of this Twin Falls ID HVAC Contractor, you can trust the professionals to deliver fast and efficient service.
- Weatherstrip doors and windows – inspect doors and windows for air leaks. If you can see daylight around a door or window frame, then it needs sealing. Air leaks can be sealed with caulking or weather stripping.
- Insulate water pipes coming from the water heater – insulate the first three to six feet of cold and hot water pipes near the water heater. Insulating all hot water pipes is not necessary if pipes are lo
cated in an attic or crawlspace. - Add an insulation blanket to your water heater – wrapping the water heater with an insulation blanket can save heating money by slowing the drop in temperature from the hot water tank as it sits unused. Inexpensive insulation kits are available at most home improvement stores.
- Add insulation to attic – when adding insulation, start at the top and word down only after eliminating air infiltration. (I've had clients do this and it drastically reduced their heating and cooling bills)
What are YOU doing to save money on energy costs this winter?
Jeremy,
My experience conflicts with some of these suggestions. For what it’s worth:
1. Foil tape and silicone caulk are acceptable for sealing ducts. Duct mastic over fiberglass tape provides superior strength, seal, and durability. And for the greatest efficiency, all ductwork should be in the conditioned space.
4. If the house is heated with an electric heat pump, setting the temperature back and then up again with a standard programmable thermostat will waste energy instead of conserving it. This happens because the auxiliary heat will engage at each automatic temperature increase, and the auxiliary (resistance) heat is very inefficient (compared to the heat pump) and expensive. An electric heat pump system CAN be efficiently set back and up with a programmable thermostat that has Adaptive Intelligent Recovery™. This technology “learns” to activate only the heat pump at the time necessary to bring the house to the desired temperature at the desired time. Otherwise, with an electric heat pump, just set it at a comfortable temperature and leave it alone.
5. Most older water heaters were set at 140° at the factory. Nearly all water heaters that are less than 10 years old are factory-set at 125°. Not for energy efficiency, as I understand it, but to reduce the liability of the manufacturers. There are labels on the newer water heaters that caution not to raise the 125° temperature setting.
8. I think this is a typo. Insulating all hot and cold water distribution pipes is necessary if they are located in an attic, and highly-recommended if they are located in a crawlspace. Insulation is not necessary if the pipes are located in the conditioned space.
9. If you wrap your water heater with insulation, you won’t be able to see the warning labels, and you may conceal a leak that will ruin the appliance before it is ever discovered … rusting the jacket and soaking the factory insulation. Wrapping a water heater may improve efficiency, and it may not be worth it.
Jeremy,
My experience conflicts with some of these suggestions. For what it’s worth:
1. Foil tape and silicone caulk are acceptable for sealing ducts. Duct mastic over fiberglass tape provides superior strength, seal, and durability. And for the greatest efficiency, all ductwork should be in the conditioned space.
4. If the house is heated with an electric heat pump, setting the temperature back and then up again with a standard programmable thermostat will waste energy instead of conserving it. This happens because the auxiliary heat will engage at each automatic temperature increase, and the auxiliary (resistance) heat is very inefficient (compared to the heat pump) and expensive. An electric heat pump system CAN be efficiently set back and up with a programmable thermostat that has Adaptive Intelligent Recovery™. This technology “learns” to activate only the heat pump at the time necessary to bring the house to the desired temperature at the desired time. Otherwise, with an electric heat pump, just set it at a comfortable temperature and leave it alone.
5. Most older water heaters were set at 140° at the factory. Nearly all water heaters that are less than 10 years old are factory-set at 125°. Not for energy efficiency, as I understand it, but to reduce the liability of the manufacturers. There are labels on the newer water heaters that caution not to raise the 125° temperature setting.
8. I think this is a typo. Insulating all hot and cold water distribution pipes is necessary if they are located in an attic, and highly-recommended if they are located in a crawlspace. Insulation is not necessary if the pipes are located in the conditioned space.
9. If you wrap your water heater with insulation, you won’t be able to see the warning labels, and you may conceal a leak that will ruin the appliance before it is ever discovered … rusting the jacket and soaking the factory insulation. Wrapping a water heater may improve efficiency, and it may not be worth it.